October’s here, and Halloween’s coming up. So in the spirit of the season, I’ve been making things that are heavy, warm, a bit gothy, and just depressing enough for every day wear. This skirt is all of that. It’s long, wool, with big deep pockets to hold all the witchcrafting supplies and/or prozac that I might need to tide me over till christmas.
Here’s a short tutorial on how to draft your own six gore skirt with big deep pockets. As I’m only giving the instructions for pattern drafting, not sewing, this tutorial is geared towards the intermediate seamstress. Putting the whole thing together might be a little confusing for somebody who’s never sewn before. I don’t want to scare anybody though, so if you think you have the hang of it, please, give it a try! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
1. First, take four measurements. To determine the total length of your skirt, measure from your waist to your desired hem length. Draw this line vertically down the center of your pattern paper. I made my skirt using the distance from my low waist to the floor. Next, measure the circumference of your waist, and divide this number by 6, (because we’re only drafting one gore, which will make up 1/6th of the total skirt). Center this measurement across the top of your pattern. Next, measure the distance from your waist down to the fullest part of your hips. Make a mark here. Then measure the circumference around the fullest part of your hips, divide the total by 6, and draw in your hip line at the height where you made your hipline mark.
2. Next, draw a line from the edge of the waist, through the edge of your hip, down to your hem. This will create a small amount of flare based on your hip to waist ratio. You could simply use this as your pattern piece, but the final skirt would have hardly any flare, and you couldn’t twirl in it.
3. To create more flare (for twirling and stuff), draw a line at an angle from the edge of the hip line down to the hem. Drawing the additional flare in from the hip-line as opposed to the waist line will keep the skirt fitted around your waist and butt. It’s more flattering and less bulky if you do it this way. Next, whip out your L-square and draw a new hemline perpendicular to the additional flare you created. Have it meet up with your original hemline where the natural flare ends. This will keep your hem an even length the whole way around.
Finally, bust out your hip curve, and smooth out the hemline, so there isn’t a point where the new hem meets the old one. It should be rounded off. Also smooth out the area where the flare begins at your hips. This will look more professional and give you a little more ease to move around with, without adding too much bulk.
Awesome. You’re done drafting a custom-fit six-gore skirt. If you aren’t in the mood for pockets, just add 1/2″ seam allowances and draft yourself a waistband. When you go to sew, you’ll want to cut 6 of this pattern piece. This will give you a perfectly fitted gore skirt. If you are in the mood for a little more work, go ahead and make some big ole pockets using the directions below.
1. Trace your original gore onto a new piece of paper. This will become the primary piece of the gore with the pocket. This piece will begin at the widest part of your hips. To form this primary piece, all you’re going to do is ERASE the TOP portion of the original gore piece. Add 1/2 inch seam allowances all around. When you sew, this piece will be cut out of your main fabric.
2. To form the secondary piece, trace the original gore again, but this time, erase everything below the hipline, KEEP the TOP portion of the original gore piece, and draw in a big curve underneath of the hipline. This will form the top portion of the gore containing the pocket, as well as make up the back of the pocket itself. Don’t forget to add 1/2 seam allowances all the way around this piece too. This piece will also be cut out of your main fabric.
3. To form the pattern piece for the pocket lining, trace piece 2. ERASE everything ABOVE the hip-line, but keep the curve of the pocket identical. Add 1/2 inch seam allowances all the way around. This piece should be cut out of a thin lining fabric, as using your main fabric will probably create too much bulk.
To create a skirt with two pockets, copy your original gore piece onto your fabric four times, to create four plain gores. The remaining two gores will be made up of the pieces created in the second tutorial. Cut two of each of these pieces. One for the left pocketed gore, and one for the right. Draft a waistband based on your own measurements, and sew that puppy up. You are done like dinner!
Happy fall, hail Satan, and embrace that sassy little goth living inside you, because the 90′s will never die.